Wednesday, November 29, 2006

Southern Scenic Route


A big hello to everyone around the globe! A couple of days before the first advent (does time really pass that fast??) we are back in civilization and have Internet access again. Time to continue our story about us fighting against the forces of nature! How do they describe New Zealand in the National Museum Te Papa? "In New Zealand it rains, and rains, and rains." We can definitely and unfortunately prove that.

The last time I left you we were heading out of the Milford region, still hoping to do part of the famous alpine Kepler track, when we were hit by hail, snow and really, really cold temperatures. Once we got to Lake Manapouri in the Fiordland National Park, it was evident that we could neither do the track nor rent a kayak. Our solution: rent a rowboat, cross the river flowing into the lake and do a short 3 hour hike up the other side of the valley in order to get some good views. Of course, I know that rowing is not difficult, I have been kayaking and canoeing so many times in Canada that I was sure there was not going to be any problems doing it with two paddles and it was going to be a lot of fun. Well, I guess, for the people on the boatramp it turned out to be a lot of fun watching me going in circles on the river and not getting one cm closer to the other shore. ;) David also enjoyed my talent immensly, and, after hours, I also could say proudly - we did arrive at the other side! And had a lot of fun and some hearty laughs.

However, as you might have guessed, some wet stuff out of the sky soon caught up with us and we decided to finally quit the region and get to the Southern Coast. I actually wanted to skip telling you about our rather unsuccessful travels on the Southern Scenic Route because most of the things we wanted to do were closed due to rain but then I thought about all those tiny but special moments and I guess some of them are worth sharing. First, let me give you an impression of what the region is like in beautiful weather and what we would have liked to see every day: our typical New Zealand green, the mountains, the sheep - little paradise.

Then, I need to introduce our fun encounter with .... "the door" to you. We were actually stopping in order to visit some underground lime caves. It was one of our particularly good ideas because we were especially well equipped for the cave climbing. It said: at least two torches for each person" and we had one almost dead torch for each of us. So after a couple of rather dark and frightinging minutes in the caves, we decided to use the first exit and end this adventure. However, we encountered this fabulous door in the middle of the field next to the cave. Doesn't it just seduce you to knock? Needless to say we waited in vain for anybody to show up in need of a good pad!

The third little story needs to be put in here so you don't get the idea we actually had good weather and it is also a special tribute to you, Greg, because I wouldn't want you to go without your regular good laugh while reading this post. So as you said you just love seeing David and me in our stylish ponchos, here comes our visit to some of the waterfalls along the route. We stopped to see a couple of them, and as they all were a couple of minutes away from the main route, we decided to show off with our beautiful and sexy clothing. The waterfalls themselves were very beautiful and the rainy weather actually added a tough of mythtical atmosphere to the whole landscape. However, we were glad to get back into our little Caspar every single time.

So, then, I would also like to share with you some insights into our way of life on DOC (Department of Conservation) Campgrounds. As you may perceive on the pictures, these campgrounds are particularly well equipped with luxurious toiletts, showers, picnic tables, barbecues, garbage bins, etc. They are a good place to be in the rain because there is so much shelter and they are not only off the paved routes for at least 15kms but also very well developed and it is easy to put up a tent on an even ground. There are also a lot of other campers around so you can exchange travel stories and make new friends. :) Well, maybe that description is a little too positive but we like our new spirit: Back to nature and primitive life!

You wonder how we survive? Well, as you may have read in previous posts, we jump into cold lakes to wash ourselves (and our dishes) and we are experts in camping cooking now. The best of the best: cooking in the tent because it is so very spacious and you don't have to panic at all to set the whole thing on fire. But, the result was a warm meal after a cold day in a cosy surrounding. Nothing more to wish for (we are getting very modest). Our spare time we spent - no, not exploring the region because we would never be able to dry our clothes again - but comfortably installed in our dear tent. Luckily, candles have been invented and so we can enjoy good books, newspapers, a game of cards or two, and the sound of the raindrops pourring down on our home.

However, we also spend some time in civilization - in this case, we fled to Dunedin, New Zealand's true Scottish city and enjoyed not only the beautiful architecture (the building on the picture in the train station) but also a very interesting visit to Cadbury's chocolate factory (yummie, free chocolate), and the discovery of New Zealand's only castle: Larnach, built by a very successful private business man and politician at the end of the 19th century. The picture here only shows me in the gardens (fuer dich Mama, in Erinnerung an Versailles) but there'll be a picture of the cute, beautiful and very interesting castle in David's post.

Of course, we couldn't get too involved in culture and had to do some crazy stuff as well. So here goes Angi taking up some wired position in order to be the most ridiculous possible. No, seriously, the explanation for this picture: we visited the world's steepest street (in Dunedin) and David just played around with the camera and different perspectives for a bit. The street actually is very amazing, we didn't dare drive our little Casper up there because we were afraid he wouldn't be able to make it and I almost lost my balance a couple of times while walking up and down and we were truely out of breath when getting to the top! (yeah, yeah, we should do more sports...)

So, I guess for today this will be it, otherwise I'll get beaten for writing too much again. But I guess, you've got quite a good idea of how life is going for us here down South now! The last picture I have for you shows Moreaki Bolders, on our way back North to Christchurch. Those round rocks lay right on the beach and people do wonder who they got there. We wondered only a little bit, had some fun climbing them, and then fled into the car because some more rain came up. A couple days earlier than expected we arrived back at our starting point - but that story will be for another day! For now, cheers to everyone and I hope you are all doing great and enjoying life.

Route scénique SUD


et devinez qui c'est qui rame pour rattraper sa copine dans le postage sur le blog hein ??

Ah bah oui, c'est moi. Ayé, je suis encore à la rue... je sais pas où elle trouve le temps de coller toutes ces tartines :-/. Vous remarquerez que j'ai fait ça bien le "kikirame" avec la photo hein :-D je suis assez fier. En plus ça me fait une intro d'enfer, parce que la photo en question vous montre le dernier endroit où nous sommes allés dans les fiordlands : une petite promenade en barque qui a vu Angi faire ses débuts avec des rames (pas triste :-D), pour aller nous promener de l'autre côté de la rivière.

Une fois cette petite rando effectuée (pas bien transcendante, mais je vous ai quand même pris une 'belle' photo : ci-contre), nous avons donc mis les voiles direction : LE SUD. Certains malins vont se dire : ah bah oui, pas con du tout, après toute cette pluie, il était un peu temps de se rapprocher du soleil; sauf que non, je me permets de rappeler à ces boubourses que la nouvelle Zélande, c'est dans l'hémisphère sud, et que du coup le sud là bas, c'est un peu comme le nord chez nous : c'est tout gris, y a du vent et de la pluie, c'est moche et ça pue... nan je déconne Greg, reviens !! ch'est joli comme tout pis mijot' j'avo bien aimé c'que j'avo vu :-)

Bon quand même, pour commencer, c'était franchement gris et moche, en témoigne la photo ci-contre : bien que je trouve la photo très jolie (le brouillard sur les montagnes dans le fond m'a donné une âme d'artiste); je vous avouerais que le ciel gris et la brouillasse, on a avait un peu plus qu'assez, et on aurait bien aimé un ciel un peu plus bleu. Sans compter le vent qu'on a eu tout le long de la côte sud. Mais même avec les misères de la météo, on a décidé de prendre norte temps pour rejoindre Christchurch en prenant la Southern Scenic Route. Alors que je vous explique... La southern scenic route (traduire : route "touristique du sud"), c'est globalement nul... C'est une bête route, aui longe la côte sud, mais où tu peux rien voire 300 jours par an parce qu'il pleut et que du coup le paysage est tout naze.

Et devinez quoi, bien sûr qu'on est tombés dans un de ces 300 jours :-p sinon ça aurait pas été drôle... Donc on n'a pas vraiment profité des paysages de bord de mer, et du coup on s'est rabattu sur les attractions annexes, c'est à dire tout un tas de trucs les plus magnifiques les uns que les autres, en général pas trop loin de la route, et accessibles soit par une piste en voiture, soit à pied. Bon, la plupart de ces attractions, c'est des chutes d'eau, mais personnellement, je les ai toutes bien aimé, elles avaient chacune leur personnalité et de la plus petite à la plus grande, elle nous ont toutes offerte un magnifique spectacle. Et en plus, pour faire plaisir à Greg, on a sorti les poncho pour aller en voir la plupart ;-)

En dehors des chutes d'eau, il n'y avait pas grand chose à voir, l'autre attraction principale (en l'occurence des grottes cathédrales dans la falaise) étant fermée pour cause de chute de terrain. Par contre, on a vraiment été impresionnés par la manière dont le vent a façonné le payage par là bas. Les arbres poussent pratiquement à l'horizontale, et les fleurs ne poussent qu'à l'abri derrière les colines. C'est vraiment remarquable, ça m'a même rappelé un peu la bretagne : même genre de paysage, même genre de temps de merde :-p ...

On a même dû se faire à manger sous la tente une fois, tellement il pleuvait tout le temps. Je vous rassure, on n'a pas foutu le feu et on a fait ça comme des chefs. En plus, le Hachi parmentier qu'on s'est préparé ce soir là était même bon, alors finalement, on n'est pas les plus à plaindre... Sans compter que la vue depuis la tente était magnifique ! je vous laisse seuls juges :

Là encore, la nature nous en a mis plein la vue. Bon d'un autre côté, ça nous a aussi rendu encore un peu plus frustrés de ne pas pouvoir vraiment en profiter à cause du temps, mais les quelques éclaircies qu'on a eues le matin au réveil et les quelques photos que j'ai pu prendre nous ont remis de bonne humeur. Et on a du coup repris la route vers Christchurch, ou plutôt dans un premier temps vers Dunedin :

Cette charmante ville de la côte est de l'île du sud nous a permis de faire une halte bien méritée dans notre route vers Christhurch (photo ci-contre : la ville vue depuis le chateau Larnach, cf plus bas). Au programme, des sorties plutôt divertissantes, avec pour commencer la visite de la chocolaterie Cadburry. Alors pour ceux aui diraient : "p'tain la vache les salauds !" (hein papa !), je précise tout de suite : rien a voir avec la chocolaterie Poulain toute sympa et presque "familiale" de Blois, celle là était beaucoup plus industrielle et beaucoup moins sympa; et le chocolat beaucoup moins bon : ils savent pas faire, vraiment, c'est tout fade leur truc. (juste pour l'annecdote, pour ceux qui se diraient : "ouais mais nous en France, on sait vachement mieux faire, je dirai que Poulain a été racheté par Cadburry il y a quelques années maintenant...")

Sinon, on a aussi été faire un tour sur la rue Baldwin aui s'avère être la rue la plus pentue du monde. Et pour être pentue, elle est pentue... On en a chié pour arriver en haut, et pour le coups, on a préféré laisser Casper en bas :-p . La photo ci-contre vous donne un aperçu de comment on s'est amusés comme des petits fous. Et on n'a pas trop traîné dans la ville à part ça. On a préféré aller faire un petit tour dans la région...

Et il y a de auoi faire un petit tour... Le paysage côtier est ici encore superbe, et contrairement à ce à quoi on s'attendait, la mer est turquoise façon tropiques, et la plage blanche, façon tropiques aussi. Comme en plus, pour une fois, il a fait beau, bin on en a profité pour se prommener jusqu'à plus soif. Par contre, l'autre intérêt de la côte, c'est normalement les animaux sauvages qui s'y prommènent régulièrement, mais de ce côté là, on a fait chou-blanc : rien vu du tout, pas un pingouin, pas une otarie, rien... On a voulu se faire rembourser, mais comme on n'avait rien payé... Bref !

Pour finir notre périple touristique dans la région, nous sommes allés visiter Larnach Castle. En guise de château, c'est plutôt un manoir, de par la petite taille du truc (rien à voir avec Chambord ou Versailles), mais comme c'est le seul truc à ressembler de loin à un château en Nouvelle Zélande, bin les kiwis sont très fier de leur unique "chateau". Bon, mis à part ça, c'est très chouette, et j'avoue que j'aurais bien habité ici. La propriété a été imaginée avec beaucoup de goût, et rien que la vue depuis le haut du donjon... Ca tape !! (cf photo plus haut, sauf que là on avait - encore - un te,ps de merde, du coup on voyait pas super loin, mais on a bien pu imaginer la vue...)

Cette visite a donc terminé notre périple le long de la Southern Scenic Route, et nous sommes maintenant à Christchurch...

Monday, November 20, 2006

Milford Sound and Fiordland


So here we continue with our story about Angela and David fighting against New Zealand's worst spring ever! From Queenstown we continued our road further South and ended up in Te Anau and on the road to famous Milford Sound. This sound is part of the forteen sounds formed by glaciers very, very long ago and which are part of the Fiordland National Park. Every tourist who comes to New Zealand usually has to come to Milford and go on a boat cruise. Thus, we got up really early to be on the first boat when there are the least tourists and out we went, into the cloudy and grey sound.

However, the landscape was just fabulous! Steep rough cliffs dropping off into the water, some like vertical walls, dense green vegetation in other places, hundreds of waterfalls (there are only four permanent waterfalls in Milford Sound, all others just spring up and die again with the rain), snow-coverd mountain peaks whenever the clouds allow a view of them, penguins playing in the water and on the rocky shores, seals bathing in the... well, I guess in the rain! It was truly a miraculous place, something I have never seen before and something I won't forget. We enjoyed every second of it and when finally, the sun broke through the clouds (picture in David's text) we were completely enraptured!

Of course, we couldn't let the chance of a hike in good weather go by and so, after the boat cruise, we decided that we would do a part of the first-day Routeburn track and hike up to a place called Key Summit. What can I tell you?! This short three hour hike gave us an impression of what the region here is truly like - a litte paradise on earth and we really, really enjoyed every second of it (of course it also gave us an impression of what we were missing out on because of this prolonged winter...). But we were not thinking of that - we were just grateful to be able to see such a place in reality, to actually be there and to be ravished by it.

We also took a look from above at the destination of our hike planned for the next day, a beautiful mirror lake situated inbetween the most majestic mountains. However, the next morning greeted us with the, by now, well-know plop, plop on our tent and our first thought was: oh no, not again! Nevertheless, we got up, packed our tent and wanted have a look at what the weather was like a little further up in the mountains where our hike was to start. This was a particularly good idea because after about three minutes in the car we were no longer whipping off rain with our windsheeld whipers, it was snow. Yeah, you may believe me (and you'll see it on the picture) it was actually snowing. But that time I knew why I had been so cold all night long and we very quickly decided that this was maybe not the right weather to go hiking. Our conclusion was to head back to Te Anau and try our luck there.

Result: we got stuck in hail. Another nice experience and at this point I would like to tell Gerrit and Enric that you have chosen a very, very good tent: it survives in the fiercest storms and rain, snow and hail and the only problem you might encounter is frozen inhabitants! Oh, and I would also like to thank Bina for the wonderful idea of giving me my red Canada-sweater because it is saving my life over here!!! Other than that we decided that we had definitely had enough and that is was time to move further South (yes, we keep having that idea in mind that it might get warmer and nicer when heading South, I guess that is because we are used to living in the Northern hemisphere). So the next time you'll here from us, you'll get some news from Lake Manapouri and the Southern Scenic Route along the South coast of New Zealand's South Island.

Milford Sounds


La description du paysage néo-zélandais au musée nationnal de Wellington commence en ces termes : "In New-Zealand, it rains, and rains, and rains again". Ca se vérifie bien, avec un temps de merde de l'est a l'ouest et du nord au sud, 3 jours sur 4 : du vent et de la pluie pour les plus chanceux, et une tempête de neige pour les cons (comme nous) qui auraient l'idée de se balader a plus de 300m d'alitude. C'est un peu amer comme intro, mais vous n'avez pas idée à quel point on en a raz la casquette de la pluie... :-(

Voilà voilà. Mon petit craquage vous aura j'espère diverti un peu, en tous cas j'en avais bien besoin, parce que comme vous l'avez compris en lisant ces quelques lignes, on n'est pas vraiment gâtés... le temps est en effet bien capricieux. Et pourtant, tout avait plutôt bien commencé, avec un temps pas mauvais du tout, et des paysages de folie. Où ça me demadez vous ? dans une région bien nommée : les fiordlands (en gros toute la partie sud-ouest de l'île du sud). Pourquoi bien nommée ? et bien figurez vous que j'ai appris qu'un fiord n'est pas comme je le pensais une sorte de baie très protégée par des montagnes, mais répond en fait à une définition beaucoup plus rigoureuse : Un fiord, pour pouvoir bénéficier de l'appellation, doit en réalité avoir été créé par un glacier. et il n'y a en fait que très peu de région dans le monde qui peuvent prétendre au titre de fiordland. Ceci étant dit, nous on y était, et tout ce qu'on a vu, c'était des sortes de baies très protégées par des montagnes :-p.

Par contre pour le coup, les montagnes descendent effectivement à pic dans la mer avec entre autres, la plus grande falaise du monde donnant sur la mer (170m si je me rappelle bien, à pic de chez à pic). Et comme on a eu la "chance" d'arriver juste après de fortes pluies, on a eu droit a une myriade de chutes d'eau jaillissant des falaises on ne sait trop comment, offrant un spectacle absolument unique. Pour pouvoir en profiter pleinement on s'est payé un petit tour dans un petit bateau très sympa, du fond du fiord jusqu'à la mer et retour. Non contents de profiter du paysage, on a aussi eu la chance de contempler quelques pingouins et lions de mer se dorant sur les rochers. 2 heures au total, qu'on a passées pratiquement entièrement sur le pont avant du bateau, bravant le vent de ouf et les vagues relativement agitées pour bien apprécier. J'ai rempli une carte complète de photos (180 photos en 2h, un record), et ma tête de souvenirs. Ce pays en vraiment magnifique. Seul problème..... "it rains, and rains, and rains again". Bin oui, on l'aurait presque oublié avec la description idylique que je viens de faire, mais le temps qu'on a passé dans les fiordlands n'a quand même pas été ce qu'on pourrait appeler "des vacances de rêve"... avec notamment eh oui vous ne rêvez pas : une tempête de neige !!! (comme quoi, ça valait pas le coup de rester au Canada ;-p) La photo dans le post d'Angi le prouve : on a vraiment eu beaucoup de neige, et autant j'adore la neige, autant le matin au réveil en sortant de la tente, j'apprécie déjà beaucoup moins...

La neige nous a découragé et nous avons dû annuler la rando prévue ce jour là et quitter les fiordlands plus tôt que prévu, mais nous en garderons tout de même deux magnifiques souvenirs, qu'une seule journée de beau temps nous aura permis de récolter : le Milford Sound (décrit juste au dessus) et Key summit, une montagne toute proche que nous avons grimpée l'après-midi après la balade en bateau, et du sommet de laquelle la vue était envoûtante (cf photo ci-contre - papa si tu oses me dire que cette photo est ratée aussi..... grrrrrrrrr)

Je termine par une photo coup de coeur que j'ai prise a 500m de l'endroit où on a campé sous la neige : Nous y avons campé deux jours d'affilée, et le premier jour notre tente était a quelques mètres d'un ruisseau très sympa qui se jettait dans le lac tout proche. Le lendemain, le ruisseau avait purement et simplement disparu :-s nous avons donc décidé d'enquêter avec Angi, en remontant le lit rocailleux dans lequel aurait dû s'écouler ce ru. Nous l'avons retrouvé quelques disaines de mètres en amont, se perdant dans les rochers, et dns un décors de végétation auquel je n'ai pas pu résister. En espérant que la photo vous plaise...

Queenstown


Bonjour bonjour ! Après un bon moment sans poster, je suis de retour pour de nouvelles aventures toujours plus excitantes, extravagantes, amusantes et parfois un brin chiantes :-p Installez vous confortablement vous voici replongés dans votre passionnante lecture de "David et Angela découvrent le monde"...

Je vous avais laissés du côté de Wanaka, dans un superhotel tout confort on nous passions quelques jours. Bon... bin comment vous dire.... l'hotel en question et le confort associé, on y a repensé plus d'une fois depuis. Notre route nous a mené de Wanaka jusqu'à Queenstown. Encore une fois, le paysage sur la route a été tout simplement magnifique. Nous nous avions dans l'idée de faire quelques randos à la journée du côté de Glenorchy, au nord de Queenstown. Pour vous donner une idée du contexte, les montagnes qui bordent cette région ont servi dans beaucoups de montages pour les paysages du seigneur des anneaux.

Et c'est vrai que c'est magnifique... en témoigne la photo ci-contre, prise en haut du Mont Albert, on en a pris plein les yeux. Par contre, on l'a méritée cette vue... Parce que v'là les conditions à la con qu'on a eues là bas ! ça avait pourtant bien commencé avec du beau temps pour notre première rando : une demi journée dans la forêt à flan de montagne pour aller admirer un glacier de plus près. sauf que le beau temps n'est pas resté longtemps : sitôt arrivés en haut et à découvert, pour aller toucher la neige en bas du glacier (véridique, c'était notre premier contact avec de la neige et on a adoré), le ciel s'est couvert de chez couvert, et on a commencé à se prendre une petite bruine sur la tronche, rendue franchement désagréable par un vent de tous les diables. On est redescendus vannés et gelés, sans avoir profité de la vue toute bouchée, et du coup un peu déçus donc.

Le lendemain pareil, il fait beau au début, ce qui permet à Angi d'aller piquer une (très très) rapide tête dans le lac au bord duquel on campait (photo dans son post pour preuve - l'eau était à moins de 10 degrés et elle s'est gelée). Le beau temps nous motivant, on s'est tapé l'ascension du mont Albert. Comment vous expiquer sans vous choquer ?! ces @#$%^&* de @#$%^&* de néos zélandais devraient apprendre à faire des sentiers de rando en lacets !!!! une pente de taré, tracée toute droite de bas en haut (ou vice-versa, suivant le moment de la journée), une piste pratiquement innexistante : des balises clouées sur des arbres à 50m les uns des autres, et démerde-toi léon pour aller de l'une à la suivante... la prochaine fois je prends des crampons et une machette. nondidjou !! m'ont énervé ces cons là. pour preuve de ce que j'avance, v'là ci-contre une photo prise depuis le "chemin"... vous y croyez vous ? on a fini la montée tout à la force des bras. Quant à la descente, j'vous fais pas un dessin hein... c'était du freestyle de toute beauté !

Nous nous sommes toutefois consolés en campant dans des endroits absolument géniaux, avec des cadres extravagants, comme les lacs miroirs dont vous avez une photo ci-contre (le matin au réveil, quand vous sortez de la tente et que vous voyez ça, ça fait sont petit effet...). Le confort a laissé à désirer pendant quelques jours et j'ai même pu tester notre filtre à eau dans le lac pris en photo ici, parce que nous n'avions plus d'eau potable après 3 jours dans des campings non-équipés, mais au total nous avons été très contents de notre passage dans la région.

The Southern Alps


Oh la la, after such a long time, we are back on the blog. And I have to say: Welcome to the North Island of New Zealand! Since yesterday, we are up here in Wellington but as we are so far behind with our stories on the blog, we'll take a journey back South to get you up to date!

Did I say that this country is incredible? Yeah, I guess I did and I wouldn't want to take it back, but we definitely have to add another two adjectives to that. This country is not only incredible, it is also very, very, very, very wet and very, very, very, very cold! Brrrr! I know I should not be complaining because we knew that New Zealand would be like that but heaven forbid we expected to live the worst spring in history here!!! I will not bore you with stories about all the things and hikes we couldn't do but just for the ones amongst you who know New Zealand a little bit better, we couldn't go an rent kayaks down in the Fiordland National Park (we would have frozen to the boats) and we couldn't do a single one of the great several day hikes, because Routeburn and Kepler were closed due to avalanche danger, snow and ice.

But of course, we never run out of ideas and so here we go with another couple of stories about the two of us exploring the Southern region of New Zealand's South Island (we are getting closer and closer to Antartica!!!). After Wanaka, we went on to the country's adrenaline capital Queenstown but as we are no too keen on Bungy jumping and spending ridiculous amounts of money, we went straight on to the less touristy region in the North of Queenstown's lake (Glenorchy). Our first day, we tried hiking up to a Glacier but the track was a litte ruined by bad weather, a lot of clouds, a continuous drizzle, and the worst winds ever. We were tough and continued to the very top to actually touch snow for the first time here but we could not really appreciate the experience and were a little frustrated.

The next day, however, surprised us with sun and a blue sky! Of course, I had to profit from the five minutes when I was not frozen and decided to go swimming in the lake next to our wild campground. The proof is here in picture and the idea was really great because I was back frozen in about 3 seconds! :) So if you feel like laughing about my position, try to swim in water with less than 10 degrees celcius and then we'll talk again.

After this refreshing morning bath, we were highly motivated to climb Mount Alfred, advertised by the tourist info as a "nice day hike". It said that the beginning would be a nice path with zig-zags (Serpentinen), then a rather unmarked route and that the end above the tree line would be rather steep and exposed (please take care of the farmer's sheep was our order!). Well, when we first started, we thought they had forgotten to put in the zig-zags because the nice path was so steep! However, when we got to the unmarked route, we found out that we actually had had zig-zags! Now, we were going right up the mountain in a straight line - or as straight as possible while trying to avoid huge mud pools, tree trunks, rocks,... We were actually getting a little worried about the rest of the hike but when we finally got to the tree line, we had to take a deep breath before continuing our track. Before us, there was knee-deep, wet and slippery grass, loose and slippery slate (Schieffer) and then - a high wall! Hmmm, exposed and steep! I would call that climbing but well! (The picture in David's text shows our route!!!)

Of course, having come that far, we couldn't juste turn around, so on we went and when we finally got to the top, we were rewarded with the most astonishing views. Every second of the the hard climb was worth-while the effort and we enjoyed the place while having our well-deserved lunch. Unfortunately, new clouds were building up rather fast and we were a little worried about our way back, so we didn't stop for too long. I'll spare you our journey back down, let's just say, I could feel my knees for the next couple of days!

After this nice experience we thought we should not try the weather-gods too much, be content with one beautiful day and move on. The mountains had caught our attention and we thought we might try and climb Ben Lomond near Queenstown and get another 400m higher than Mount Alfred. As you may imagine by now, we ended up being stranded in bad weather once more and only climbed the tiny Queenstown city hill from where we had a great view of Ben Lomond and plenty of time to think about where we could have been had it not been for the weather... it was a rather mean situation! However, we were partly compensated by the most wonderful campground imaginable - right in the middle of a sheep and cow paddock and next to a mirror lake. We loved the place even though we had to cook on the grass as there were no tables. But that's life in the wilderness and we had a lot of fun running after the little lambs.

Now David is telling me that our post is getting too long and that I have to start a new one - so here we go.

Sunday, November 05, 2006

Middle Earth is calling to us!


New Zealand's South Island is just incredible! So that's that and basically, that is all there is to tell you!

No, of course, I am not going to leave you at this, you know me much too well to believe something like it, but seriously, the thing I could tell you over and over again is that this country is just incredibly beautiful. But let's start with first things first: here comes the proof that I am actually here: the Team Germany shirt amongst mountains, lakes, and... sheep! Isn't that a nice place here? We actually put up our tent there for a night, amongst sheep and cows! Awesome!

After our nice stay in luxurious homes in Christchurch and in the Marlborough Sounds, it was high time for us to get used to our dear tent and camping comfort again. In order to try us, the weather decided to continue with the rain (one night we even had to sleep in a backpacker because there was no way we could have set up the tent, we would have floated away!) and my stomach decided that it was about time to go on strike against our food and fell sick with gastritis (which changed my diet from tasty pasta with tomato sauce to tasty bread and rice without anything - nice change!). As you may imagine we did not spent a very wonderful time while driving down the West Coast but at least we managed to visit Shantytown, a rebuilt of an old gold-mining town which we found really well done, cute, and informative. David mostly enjoyed the steam train and the crafts while I was more interested in home-made ice-cream and bonbons. :):):) (Don't worry my stomach paid me back for it)

Next on our route was Punakaiki and the famous Pancake Rocks where we managed not to get too wet and to go for a short walk. It was a particular experience because halfway through the hike, after about 2 hours, we suddenly found ourselves facing a closure of the track. Somebody had had the wonderful idea of not indicating at the beginning of the track that half of it was closed due to reparations. We decided that we did not feel at all like walking back the way we came, so we just climbed over the warning "Danger, stay out" and continued our walk. It ended up to be a really, really nice hike with wonderful views of a Middle Earth like river (you can almost see them paddling through there!!)and not too many very dangerous passages (Mama, du ueberliest das jetzt mal mit den gefaehrlichen Passagen ok?). We did not get in trouble either but people looked kinda funny at us when we finally reached the other end of the track, which was clearly marked as off-territory. :)

Even though it was raining badly when getting further South, we decided the we couldn't just go past Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. We had to cancel our idea of doing a day-hike in the region (it was here that we couldn't put up the tent because of the weather) but we nevertheless walked up to Franz Josef Glacier and had the chance to witness an almost surreal landscape with thick clouds playing around the mountain tops, small waterfalls pouring down everywhere and the moist rain-forest steaming... As you may see, we also had the chance of trying out our most stylish ponchos. Don't I look nice in that?!? Well, at least we won't let the weather dominate our good mood. ;)

Despite our bad luck with the weather we then managed to have one day with blue sky and some sun and we used it wisely to travel on from Haast on the West Coast to Wanaka in the Southern Alps. The route is know to be very, very scenic and beautiful and I can tell you, we didn't get on very fast because we had to stop every 10 m or so in order to take some pictures! It is really fascinating to be driving through dense green rain-forest and have the mountains with snow on top of them in the background. I have never seen anything like it, neither in Canada nor in the Alps. Amazing! Of course we couldn't just drive through such a landscape and so we stopped once in a while to walk to some close-by waterfalls or lakes or just take a stroll through the rain-forst because we managed to choose the wrong path! Unfortunately, I was still quite ill, so David went on some of the walks alone while I slept in the car...

However, I soon found myself in the best environment possible to get well again because we were once more saved from our hard backpacker life by Mitch and Dianne, who offered us a three night stay in their appartement in a resort in Wanaka. Of course we thought it would be a nice place, but when we got there, it was just ... magical. Tine, I don't know if you remember us getting into Las Vegas after the desert but David and I were about as happy to be in civilization again as we were when jumping on those beds and taking showers for hours and hours. ;) Seriously, it was paradise for us to be in a dry place where we could wash and dry our cloths, to have a nice and warm bed and not to worry about the freezing temperatures outside, to be able to cook some hot soup for my poor stomach, and to be able to switch on the light by means of a light-switch and not a lighter!

We spent most of our time in Wanaka enjoying the luxury of our hotel room (with the most wonderful view over the lake and the mountains), the sauna and spa, the nice bar with a roaring fire in the chimney, the cute little town with its small shops and cafes, and just resting, resting, resting. We would like to say "THANK YOU" one more time to Mitch and Dianne, this definitely was the most luxurious hotel of our travels and it definitely came at the right time.

However, before we get too used to luxury (very dangerous in this country for us so far), we'll move on through the Southern Alps direction Queenstown and Fiordland National Park and we'll tell you more about our mountain adventures soon!