Sunday, July 15, 2007

More of Estonia and Latvia



There we go again and this time: Hello from Riga! The last time I told you that we were going to visit Laheema National Park in Estonia and we did spent three wonderful days there even though we now also have to suffer from this terrible European summer: we got soaked in our dear tent! Luckily, we had one wonderfully sunny day when we rented bicycles and went exploring the region. How good it felt to have the fresh air blow into our faces, to smell the see, the pine forests, the flowers and the summer fields! Ah, I just loved it! Of course, we hadn't been on bikes for a very long time, so after 60 km we almost dropped dead and couldn't move or sit for the next two days (especially as we also kept playing basketball and fresbee in our free time at the campground) but it was all good fun. We saw beautiful old farm houses, had fun on traditional Estonian village swings, drank locally brewed beer in the middle of the day, watched a family of storks for hours, visited an old manor house with a beaufiful winter-garden,... it was the perfect change from city life! Oh, and no, I did not go for a swim, shame on me, but the beach near our campground was really terrible with tons of algea, and then it got very cold, and then nobody wanted to go with me, and then it started raining, and then it got so cold and uncomfy, and then I was so lazy, ... hehe, well, let us say I prefered the sauna of the campground!



After Laheema, our route took us back to Tallinn and to Urmo, Liivi, and Kriss. Unfortunately, the rain clouds somehow also followed us and we were rather stuck in the city with three days of rainy weather. I can tell you, if this continues, we'll be experts on Eastern European history and art, well-known in all museums possible, and very up-to-date on the latest blockbusters in the movie-theaters! Ah, and we'll be able to advise you and the best bars, cafes, and restaurants in the region. My favorite cafe in Tallinn has already been discovered, Kehrwieder is just awesome (Kennst du es, Suse?)! Luckily, we did have some dry periods during the days and so we went out one evening to stroll through the illuninated streets and soak in the fairy-tale atmosphere once more. Tallinn is just the perfect place for all of this, execpt maybe that fact that it doesn't get dark here before midnight right now...

One of the museums we visited when it was a little clear, was the Estonian Open Air museum. They display old Estonian farms and village houses such as an old chapel, a bourgeois house, fishermen's lodgings, an old fire station, an old school... It was quite an interesting visit because we learnt a lot about building houses and it was fun to see the interiors of lodgings from the last couple of centuries. Unfortunately, we were not there during the weekend when they have all kinds of animations to show how people really lived during that time - but then, it is not that unknow to us as we are back in Europe now. :)

Then we were on the road again, for the astonighingly long journey of 5 hours! I barely had the time to fall asleep in the bus when we were already back in Riga and our new HC family welcomed us. This time, we would like to thank you, Edgards, Maruta, and Ernest, for your warm welcome, all the good advice, and the nice trip to Rundales! This time, we were a little better of with the weather and thus spent a great time out in the city, exploring all the tiny streets of the old town and the flashy new areas. We did find the Bremer Stadtmusikanten this time, we climed up the tower of St. Petri to enjoy the views, we visited the museum of occupations to get a better understanding of Latvian mentality, we enjoyed great food and we found THE perfect medieval restaurant, down in the cellars of an old house. The place was just incredible with astonishingly real decorations, basically only candle light, and perfect to have a beer and to get lost in reveries!



One last story before the end: so, we were strolling leisurely through the streets of Riga, when we bumped into a German dipolmatic car. Looks nice, doesn't it? Well, looking right and left, David was the first to discover the occupant. Do you also recognise him? Yep, Frank-Walter Steinmeier, our secretary of state, in person. And what was more, he did not only enjoy his diner in that nice restaurant, he also went to exactly the same concert in the cathedral as we did! Apparently, he has good taste!



Friday, July 13, 2007

Back in Europe



After a long silence - hello to all of you again, this time from...eh, Riga, Tartu, Tallinn? Well, right now from Tallinn! So we are back in Europe now. About three weeks ago around midnight, the plane toughed down and we were home. "EU citizens" it said on the sign for the passport control and it took us about two seconds to pass it. Then we got out of the airport and even though the air didn't quite smell like home, everything definitely looked like home. Did we ever consider China as as far developed as Europe? Well, apparently we must have been very badly influenced by our stay in India and everything afterwards seemed like the future, but here now, this was developed! China... you still have some way to go. The taxi was the most luxurious car I have been in for a year, the guy offered real service, the houses and architecture looked sooo familiar, the music in the radio was well known, in the hostel there were blond heads and brown heads and blond heads and red heads and blond heads,... and the girl at the reception offered us a beer as a welcome... yeah - we are definitely back home. You wonder why we call Europe home and not France or Germany? Well, what could be more home for a European couple than Europe?! I guess traveling changes a lot of perspectives but we both see Europa as home now.

The next day confirmed my thesis about being home - Europe greeted us with perfectly German grey sky and continuous rain! But still, the streets were paved with cobbled stone, there were pedestrian precincts, one cafe followed another, the restaurant sold roast beef with sauerkraut and Viennese schnitzel - and I was all lost among those familiar sights. Where were those incomprehensible writings all around us, where was the rice with chopped-up ingredients, where were all the black heads, were was the everyday struggle to get what we wanted, where was the pollution and the noise, the communication with hands and feet and the perpetual smile? Where was the adventure? Apparently, it doesn't take a lot of time to get used to a new culture and to break the habits of an old one, so I found myself a stranger among a familiar place and culture and had to readapt once more!

The beauty of home, however, is that you get used to it really quickly and, moreover, there were still lots of things to discover all around us. Our first stop-over: Riga, where the plane had taken us and where we spent two days exploring the region in the rain and four nights without sleeping because of the crowd of puberty-hitten, drunk, extremely cool backpackers we were stuck with in our dormitory - are we getting old??? (tja Suse, ich glaube Fun Franks hat sich sehr veraendert...). Nevertheless, we had the time to visit some really nice areas, admire some beautiful architecture and say hi to Roland, a very familiar statue for me because he also stands in the partner city of Riga: Bremen!

However, we soon decided that we had to get away from those clouds and David proposed the itinery >Tartu>Tallinn>Laheema>Tallinn>Riga within 10 days to me. I thought he had gone completely crazy but then he reminded me that we were back in Europe and that we did not have to travel for two days anymore to get from one place to the next! On the contrary, two days travel would probably have brought us right back the doors of our parents! So we decided to go visit Estonia and went to Tartu, a very sweet student town that was extremely dead because of the holidays but just perfect for us to get some sleep and to visit the beautiful town centre, the old cathedal ruins, to chat with Oscar Wilde for a while, and to explore the best ever toy museum that made us want to be kids again! Can there be anything better than to worry only about getting or not getting this new Lego set?! Well, yeah, better would be to get it right away but besides that I mean...



Next was Tallinn(the pics above), and from the minute we set foot into that city, we fell in love with it! Seriously, nobody can resist those beautiful old cobbled-stone streets winding through old houses, parts of the old city wall and along small parcs, those lovingly decorated restaurants, cafes, bars, pubs and medieval cellars, and those fun people: a girl running around in mirco-shorts where you can see more than is covered, a guy who sells the "smallest kite" in the world and who does nothing else all day long than letting them fly, super friendly girls who sell roasted almonds in medieval wagons (Ja, Suse, wir sind wohl wirklich brechenbar, aber wer kann bei dem Duft schon stark bleiben...), a gang of 8 people processing through the streets with a drum and singing "Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna", all those artists exhibiting their works in the street,... Even though Tallinn is definitely a very touristy city, it is a beautiful place to be, it has a very special charm and it just gets under your skin. Could we imagine to settle down here for a couple of years? Without hesitation! But first, we did all the regular tourist stuff even though we were freed from the usual backpacker gang. We were back with Hospitality Club and had the most fun hosts possible: a "typically Estonian" family who made our time very special! Thanks Urmo, Liivi, and Kriss for all the great laughs, the typically Estonian experiences, the bed, the wonderful cooking, the guitar, the tea with honey, the coffee with milk and sugar, ... We hope to see you again soon! So, from this temporary home, we explored Tallinn and we also went to Laheema National Park for three days. This, however, is the story for another day because this is getting long here! So see you soon again!!



Oh, and this is a special for you, Ian and Jesper. Do you recognize the card? When we walked into our hostel in Riga, the first thing we stumbled on was the card of the Golden Gobi! No idea how it got there because all the other information was about Europe but who knows... You seem to keep following us around!! :)



Thursday, July 12, 2007

Retour en Europe : Riga > Tallinn



Eh bin voilà, nous avons quitté l'asie et nous voilà rentrés à la maison... ou presque ! après un vol sur la compagnie russe Aeroflot (qui ne s'est pas crashé !) et une escale prolongée à Moscou pour cause de retard du premier avion qui nous a fait rater notre connexion, nous sommes aterris à riga, capitale de la Lettonie, le pays du milieu là bas en haut à droite de l'Europe, pas loin de la russie ;-) (bon c'est quand même dans l'UE, vous devriez connaître !!)

La première impression en sortant de l'avion à minuit et en prenant le taxi pour aller à l'Auberge : y a pas, on est quand même bien en europe !! (taxi parce que dernier bus raté à un quart d'heure près, rageant ! - ouais ouais Greg, je sais, je devrais arrêter avec les bus, mais c'est plus fort que moi, j'aime ça ;-p ) pourquoi cette impression : facile ! le conducteur du taxi était aimable, malgré l'heure avancée, et il a pas essayé de nous voler ou de nous emmener à un hôtel miteux où il aurait pu se faire une commission, pis les routes étaient lisses et on sautait pas dans la mégane dernier cri, pis ça sentait bon pis c'était propre pis.... etc etc etc... Home sweet home !!

On s'est donc posés dans une chouette Auberge peuplée de backpackers fêtards bourrés de 21h à 21h le lendemain (pile le genre qu'on aime), et on est partis explorer la ville. Et qu'est-ce qu'elle est jolie la ville !! c'était un plaisir de s'y promener... Une vraie ville de l'Est, colorée, vivante, pleine de petites rue pavées et piétonnes, où tu peux aller partout à pied (gros changement par rapport à Beijing), où tous les restos et cafés sont décorés traditionnellement ou tendance, mais dans tous les cas à la perfection, vraiment, ça fait du bien d'être de retour dans un pays civilisé

On ne s'est toutefois pas trop attardés à Riga, parce qu'il faisait pas beau pis parce qu'on va y repasser plus tard, et pour l'heure on a mis les voiles direction l'Estonie et la charmante petite ville de Tartu. Tartu, c'est une ville universitaire qui bouge super beaucoup, malgré ça petite taile... Enfin... ça bouge quand l'université est ouverte quoi... Pasque pendant les vacances, tintin ! c'est tout mort !! mais nous on a plutôt aimé : on s'est promenés tranquillement et on a pu admirer tout aussi tranquillement la cathédrale en ruine et en rénovation, le musée d'art morderne penché comme la tour de pise, la statue des amoureux devant la mairie, et on s'est même payé la visite du musée du jouet : adorable ! le tout sous un soleil de plomb et un ciel azur : que demande le peuple ?!



Pour continuer en Estonie, on a mis les voiles directement sur la capitale : Tallinn (non non, j'ai pas craqué : y a bien 2 "l" et 2 "n" ;p). On y a passé 3 jours, hébergé par une famille de locaux top délire : Urmo, Liivi et Kriss qui nous ont admirablement accueilli chez eux. On a pu se visiter la ville encore sous un soleil radieux, et profiter de l'annimation du week-end. Notre conclusion : bin on est bien partis pour s'y installer à Tallinn... c'est dire à quel point la ville nous a plu ! c'est pas dur, tout ce qu'on y a vu nous a plu... Les bars/cafés/pubs/tavernes/restaurants et autres lieux hautement symboliques de l'art de vivre des estonniens, les monuments historiques disséminés un peu partout dans la ville, les petites ruelles dans lesquelles on peut se perdre pendant des heures juste à flanner dans les tout petits magasins, les artistes qui exposent leurs peintures ou qui jouent quelque instrument que ce soit à chaque coin des-dites ruelles, les maisons colorées qui mettent de la vie dans la grisaille de la ville, grisaille qui en fait n'est qu'une vague notion à Tallinn tellement toute la ville est vivante et colorée. Bref vous l'avez compris : on a A.D.O.R.É !! Y avait même une cariole avec des filles en costume qui vendaient des amandes grillées !!! Que du bonheur je vous dis !

Bon par contre, notre arrivée à Tallinn a malheureusement coincidé avec l'arrivée des nuages, ce qui fait que mis à part le premier jour où il a fait beau (comme vous pouvez le voir sur les photos), on s'est tapé un temps de m..... Qui nous a poussés à aller voir ailleurs. Enl'occurence : un parc nationnalen bord de mer à 80 Km de là où on a effectivement retrouvé le beau temps... Pour une journée ! avant de se faire à nouveau rattraper par les nuages et la pluie. Mais ça c'est une autre histoire et ça sera le sujet d'un prochain post :-) avant de partir je vous mets juste une autre photo de Tallinn. Vue d'en haut et avecle ciel bleu cette fois. C'est joli hein ?





Wednesday, July 11, 2007

ONE YEAR



Well, we might be one day late because we were a little busy celebrating yesterday but here it is: We have been traveling for one year straight! Yesterday was the big day! Can you believe it?! We definitely can't and it doesn't feel like a year at all if I don't think about all the things that have changed for you. Didn't we leave just a week ago?

OK, I am exaggerating, and maybe it is about time to come home again but we are still not tired of traveling and of discovering the wonders of this world. The last year has been the most amazing time of my life and I wouldn't want to exchange one single second of it. I feel so much richer after all those experiences and I am very grateful for all the great moments we had and for all the wonderful people we have met! Of course, I am also very grateful to have all of you as friends who have stayed so loyal to me over such a long space of time! Thanks to everybody and CHEERS to our one year anniversary!



Un an !! un an putain !! vous le croyez vous ? nous on y croit à peine... Mais le fait est là, hier ça a fait exactement un an que nous avons quitté l'aéroport de Frankfurt am Main. Alors bon, on aurait pu écrire se post hier mais on était trop occupés à fêter ;-p.

Ca fait aussi un an que vous suivez nos aventures ici (pour la plupart d'entre vous en tous cas), et nous vous en sommes reconnaissants. C'est pas encore tout à fait fini, et les prochains posts sur l'Europe de l'Est devraient d'ailleurs arriver bientôt (je sais, on est à la bourre, comme d'hab !), cela dit c'est clair que ça commence à sentir la fin... Un an c'est long mine de rien, et même si cette année est passée à la vitesse du son, ça sera pas de refus de retrouver quelques racines, et surtout de pouvoir se poser un peu plus de 3 minutes 30 pour repenser à tout ce qu'on a fait ces derniers 365 jours... (rien que revoir les quelques milliers de photos qui nous attendent sagement à la maison...)

Encore un peu de route donc, mais déjà beaucoup de chemin de parcouru !

Cheers !!